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The secrets of haute couture trousers

• In a good quality pants pockets and are made of wrinkle-resistant fabric and sewn with thick points.

• These pants should have a fine lining to the knee

• The belt should be lined with care.

• Inside the lining is divided into several parts, so you can widen or tighten the waist without any major problems.
  
• The hem of the trousers should be finished with a sill that protrude 1 mm so that the pants are rubbing consumption contro la scarpa; questo dettaglio serve altresì a dare più peso all’orlo per far cadere meglio il tessuto.

• Nel caso di un pantalone estivo molto leggero, il battitacco può essere limitato alla metà posteriore dell’orlo perché in tal modo il tessuto risulta già abbastanza appesantito.

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Il risvolto del pantalone

Il risvolto si addice a quasi tutti i tipi di pantaloni, ed è adatto all’abito, alla giacca sportiva e al blazer. Le uniche eccezioni sono costituite dal frac, dallo smoking e dal tight, casi un cui il pantalone va rigorosamente portato without flaps.

This detail is not appropriate in the double-breasted suits. The men of high stature should not use the flap, as it tends to shorten the figure, if you can not give it up, then you should choose a fairly tight pants and short span in order to offset the effect of the flap.

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types lining

For the cover you use a soft cotton fabric, the Bemberg, or even pure silk. The jackets are often lined with summer only half, or at the shoulders, chest and back. A shoulder is not lined to prevent the jacket from sliding easily over his shirt

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The lining of the pockets

The pockets on the chest are often finished with the fabric of his jacket. This is a particularly refined, that does not always give attention to the exact place that you can not see from the outside, but it is directed exclusively to the owner of the jacket

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The liner and jacket

The lining is hand sewn onto the fabric. Italian tailors working on the edge points with less extensive so as to leave some slack to the liner. When, for example, it moves with the movement of the wearer, the seam si tende leggermente; in tal modo viene compensata anche un’eventuale dilatazione della fodera causata dalla temperatura corporea

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I tipi di imbottitura e il fissaggio

L’imbottitura viene ricavata da una teletta rigida di spessore variabile ed è fissata con piccoli punti a mano sulla stoffa. Il crine di cavallo, per la sua elasticità, permette alla giacca di mantenere a lungo una forma tridimensionale, come per esempio sul petto e sui revers. Nelle giacche confezionate, invece, l’imbottitura viene incollata per motivi di praticità.

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I bottoni e la loro cucitura

I bottoni sono di materiale naturale, in Gender horn.

The choice of the button is made by the client on the advice of his tailor. Jackets tailoring the buttons are sewn by hand.

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the loop: the true spirit apparel handmade

The slots are always tailor a jacket sewn entirely by hand.

Typically, the slot should be flat and enlarged to provide space only at the stem of the button.

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A good habit: the alignment of the drawing

In a coat of good quality design to fit perfectly in the greater number of seams, but especially on the pocket. Even between the shoulder and chest the meeting should be continuous. However, there are technical limitations and, therefore, seeks to ensure that at least matches the design on the front to give a uniform effect.

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How to tell if it's a good "shoulder"

The secret lies in the realization of the shoulder of placing a sleeve in a two-dimensional rounded armholes. The amount of material necessary to cover the armhole should be cut and shaped so as to avoid creating bulges in the passage between the sleeve and shoulder.

In a good root of tailor's shoulder sleeve perfectly smooth

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The tape measure and the meter of wood

The unknown inventor of the meters has allowed the art of tailoring make a substantial step forward. With the tape measure is possible to measure accurately the round parts of the body.

The famous tailor meter of wood is used only for pieces of cloth.

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The thimble

There is a tailor in the world that does not use a thimble. Without the thimble could not thread the needle several times in the tissue.

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The smell of the shop craft

In the craft shop of a tailor's always smell of steam and scorched canvas, this is because the Taylor is constantly working with iron. To give shape to the damp and stir several times.

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The white thread for basting

With white cotton thread to the "coat makers sketched the dress for the first test. Then the individual parts are again separated to be stitched up with greater care and permanently. The cotton basting thread is not only more brittle than that of silk, but is also more visible on the fabric.

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The padding to form the jacket

The shape of the jacket is given a decisive dall'imbottitura. Hard laps, crien, cotton or felt up the structure inside jacket which, thanks to these inserts take shape.

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The chalk: the Swiss Clipper boxcutter

The tailor's chalk is an essential tool for the cutter, which uses it to point directly to the instructions on the cloth who will strike up the first test (coat maker).

During the first test, the clipper record any changes to be made, while in the next marks the location of the slots and the correct length of the sleeves.

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The difference can not see: the cover!

lining of the jacket must be hand-sewn, detail, recognizable by the distance between individual points, which is never as regular as that of points in the machine. However, there are sewing machines that can mimic the hand-stitching.

In tailoring D'Ambrosio did not resort to tricks like, is a must for any tailor who produces handmade clothes.

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The model should be drawn on you

The cutter (cutter) draws the model apparel on brown wrapping paper with the measurements of the customer.

Each pattern (pattern) is carefully preserved in the studio for any additional orders or comparisons. Each customer is given special attention in conservation measures, clothes patterns designed and ordered.

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A good dress? 70 hours

To make a bespoke suit takes 70 hours as a rule, it should therefore be wary of those that promise a couture gown in 24 hours or less. Usually you have to wait a few days before making the first round and other 6 / 8 weeks until the final delivery.

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The guiding principle of tailoring D'Ambrosio

"A dress created by a man on a man for a man" this is the principle of tailoring D'Ambrosio.
For each client is processed, according to its measures and the like, a single cut that fits exactly to its constitution and his personality.

Dress with class means to adopt a unique style but with all the connotations of a current interpretation. The wealth of details, the undisputed quality of the fabrics, cut the researchers point out a type of clothing that reflects a tradition into the future. It represents the most accurate expression of your way of looking at life, your ambitions, but also reveals your most valuable quality.


The effort of tailoring D'Ambrosio is to affirm the "sartorial" , handed down from generation to generation, which allows you to make all the necessary features to personalize each creation.
"In the era of luxury the greatest privilege is different from others. That's why a bespoke suit is, and always will be all the rage, because there's nothing more personal than wearing a dress made to your liking. " The

relationship between the tailor to his client is a relationship based on the discretion of one who knows your physical defects and knows what it takes to address these public in making you an unmistakably personal style. The tailoring

D'Ambrosio is synonymous with traditional Italian tailoring that, able to always select the best to offer the public a new classic elegance, focuses on tailoring and customizing.
Having the chance to try at least once in your life becomes a bespoke suit, in fact, in a gentle bondage. Comfortable, elegant, always appropriate for every eventuality, indestructible in time, to measure may soon become a companion for life which you can not live without.

Throughout the twentieth century the great Italian tailoring tradition, alongside the English, led to a process that allowed the dissemination of the style, of beauty and love of detail and sees the 'classic masculine elegance back and focus on tailoring, personalization, wiping out the approval.