The details of the jacket to Measure
REVER:
The edges of the lapels are riddled with a needle prior to sewing so that the distance between two points can be identical. When
points are not made by hand, a machine called AMF seams imperfect mimics a manual processing.
SHOULDER: The building of the jacket's shoulder is complex.
The seam of the shoulder strap should look straight and not curled (the armhole is supported by very light padding), while in the case of a sleeve inserted "jacket" is created naturally curl at the top of the shoulder that gives the garment a less formal.
DESIGN: The design of giacca deve combaciare perfettamente sul maggior numero di cuciture, soprattutto sul taschino ma anche tra spalla e petto.
A volte alcuni limiti tecnici non permettono di raggiungere l'assoluta perfezione, ma generalmente si cerca di fare in modo che almeno la parte anteriore della giacca abbia un disegno omogeneo.
ASOLA: Le asole di una giacca di sartoria solitamente vengono cucite a mano e hanno una forma allungata che tende ad allargarsi solo all'estremità per lasciare spazio al gambo del bottone.
Alcuni sarti realizzano un occhiello a forma di goccia che, proprio per questa sua forma particolare, si differenzia dagli occhielli jackets made in series.
LINING: The material most commonly used to line the jackets is a synthetic fiber (viscose or cupro) made from natural raw materials and rarely uses the silk.
Under armpit is inserted into a crescent attached to the hand of the same material with which it is implemented the cover.
Fessina OPEN: The
tailored jackets have the eyes open and you can unbutton the sleeve completely.
The sleeve is over with a cut straight and parallel to the slots. The industrial units have the sleeve cut and pasted oblique.
POCKETS INSIDE: The pockets are finished with the same fabric on the perimeter of the jacket to enhance the value of the animal itself.
BUTTON: The buttons are made strictly from natural materials (horn, corozo).
They are attached by hand and have a gambino that separates them from the fabric of his jacket.
neck and REVER ... between the collar and the lapels of his jacket (in this case a spear) are made of points by hand to combine these two shares while leaving intact the softness and reversibility of the same line.
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